Garment construction



Aug. 31, 1943. H. BAILEY GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed April 15, 1940 2 Sheets-$heet l INVEILITOR. Rrkynaflflala BY w.

ATTORNEY,

1943- P. H. BAILEY 2,328,181

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed April 15, 1940 A TTORNEY;

2 Sheets-Sheet .'2

Q Patented Aug. 31, 1943 oNuE 1 2,328,181 L s V oAnrmNrooNsTnuoTIoN- lv Y V Perkins Bailey; New/York ;NQY. assignor to 3 Talon, IncL, agar-notation of Pennsylvania Application April 15, 1940, semi Nb. 329.633 l plaim. (CL 2' 9 6Y I This invention relates to garment constnic 'tions and; in particular, toathe provision therein of new and improved slide fastenedlclosure constructions. t a. a

It is an object ofwthis invention to provide a new and improved method of1applying slide faszteners ofthe separating end type, to garments for'providing slide fastened closures-for convenient ingress and egressof garmentwearers. I It is a further objectof this invention to pro- .vide (such constructions and vsucha. method iof' construction wherein the slide fastener. .may be appliedwith the "utmostconvenience and economy, due to reduction of the time andlabor'necessary. .to install the fastener in the garment closure. i

. It as further object of this invention 55m videtsuch closure constructions, wherein; adjust? ment of the garment width or circumference may be conveniently modified either during, or after, the manufacture thereof." i

It is a further object of this invention to provide such a closure constructionwhicn-in addi-- tion to lowcost and convenience oirinstallatiom. embodies the utmost achievable freedom and .ac-

cessibility to the separating end fitting at the lower endgof a slide fastenerof the separating endtype.

' -These and othervobjects andadvantages ofthe invention will appear from the following description taken in conjunctionwith the .accompanyof a. garment embodving.

garment omitted form of gar front panels illustratedin 4 for the achievementwof' the garment construction illustratedin Fig.1 2; r

Fig.1 is a front view 0f a closure patchconstructi'on, according to thiscinvention, which is 7 adapted for application to sgarment panels for achievement of the.garment constructions illus- .tratedinFigslandZ;

l i I Fig.18 isfa back vie w illustrating the first ste'p l0 sure patch construction illustrated in Figf'l;

of a'first preferred. method of formingtheclo- Fig. 9.is a back views'imilan to Fig.8, illustrating a subsequent step in the first'preferred 'method of constructing the closure patch con struction showninFigJI; J

, n Fig; 10 is a back .iview: illustrating the first. step of1a;secondprefe'rred method of forming the closure patch construction illustrated .in Fig. 7

" a Fig. 11 is a'backview; similarto Fig. 10, illustrating a subsequent step in the second preferred .[method' ofv forming the; closure patch .cons'tructionofFig.7;an'df I Fig.\12; isa fro'ntviewof the structure sh0Wn in Fig. 11;

i Formerly, in the provision of slide fastened closure for garments, eachvstrin'ge'r of the slide fastener used in the closure wastreatedas a unit and applied separately to'thegarment. goften, this practice was accompanied}by'misaligmnent of one or both-of the fastener stringers which were handled and appliedindependently In many cases, theapplication-of thefastener tqth garment constituted one of the mostpainstaking and time-consumingoperations in the'gar- -ment manufacture.

where the slide fastener closure provided was of i the separating end type and where it was neces- Fig; 3 isa fragmentary view of garment front panels utilized informing the garment construction illustrated in Fig, 1;

Fig. 4 is aqviewl, similar to Fig. 3 of garment struction illustrated in Fig. 2; v i 1 Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3, but illustratfront panels utilized informing the garment. coning the application of a closure patch construction,according"to this invention, to the garment front panels of ment construction illustrated in Fig. 1; I Fig. 6. is a view similar to Fig. 5, but illustrating the application of a closure patch construction, according to this invention, tothe garm'en't Fig. 3 for achievement of the-gar sary, 'or desirable, that the 1 separating end fittings at the-lower endJofthe separating fastener be attached inxsuch" manner as to be freely accessible." Free accessibility to the end fittings is necessary toprovide for the necessary manipulation of the fittings, in connecting'and disconnecting the parts of the separating end fitting to open and close the slide fastened closure and the garment to which itis"attached, or'gin other .words',-.to providethe Su'rcoat feature as de- :scrib'edzandclaimed in patent to granted September 21', .1937. t 1150 7.

Yeng'st 2,093,792

= According to this"inventi'on, whereina separating ijend slide fastened closure isincorporated in a closure patch construction or closure patch :unit and 'thepatch construction or unit is "atftached,as a unit, to opposite sides of the closure openingof the garment by stitching substantially This was, especially true .The front openings which in the construction" shown in Fig; 1 1,- comprises a longitudinalslit, substantially. cenremoved from theinner edges of the stringers, at.

the lower end of the fastener, at least, the above Y disadvantages are obviated while the advantages. 'of the Surcoat construction are achieved with utmost economy in labor andtime and with ultimate convenience. I V I I 7 Conventional details of dress or garment making suchas stitching, seams, facings and the like,

tary interlockingly' engageable fastener elements or.members 33 terminating at its upper end in a top stop member '34. 'One of the stringer tapes,

forv instance thestringer tape 3|; is provided at its lower end with theretainer memberf35 of a V separating end fitting, which retainer member is provided with alongitudinal recess adapted slidably to receive the pin member 35 secured at the whichare nct,'in themselves, a partcf this in-.

- Vention. are omitted from. the following description, and are likewise omitted from the drawings;

in the interest of clearness of disclosure.

lower endof. the row of fastener members or ele- *mentsfiiton the other stringer tape. A' slider 31 is supported 'on'the interlocking fastener mem- Referring to the drawings in detail, the gmfments of Figs. 1 and 2, each include a' back panel coextensive with the length and width of the garment and generally designated l5. Secured at its? side edges and upper end to the back panel'l 5fis a front panel generally designated It which (ex tends. from the upper end of the garment. downwardly substantially below the waistline thereof. Secured to the back and frontpanels in. conventionalmanner are sleeves I! which, togetherwith the back panel I5 and front panel it make up the jacketportion, in the case .of garments such as that shown. in'Fig. L1, or the entire: garment Where }it comprises a jacket or coat as'is shown in Fig. 2. In the construction shown in Fig. l, airont bersor elements 33 of the stringer tape carrying the retainer member 35 and is provided with a pull membe'rtd The stringer itapes 3| and 32 are secured to the rear or back side of the strips 2! andZli 'i-n conventional manner, as. by suitable rows of stitzhiiig'gtl, as shown in Figs. 9 and 11.

The closure pat'ch construction or patch unit 24 thus comprises a pair of strips 21 and 28 detachably secured together by a separating end slide fastener-3i]; i

' in Figs. 8 and '9. Fig. 8 shows the constituent A preferredmethod of forming the closure patch construction or patch unit '24 is illustrated parts of the closurepatch"construction,or patch unit 2A,.when. formed by a preferred. method.

Y These parts comprise '-suitably: prepared strips skirt panel I3 is secured atits side edgesto the :back panel l5, and'its upperend portion'is over-G v lappedbythe front panel Hi;- -A collar 1 9 is SEE-I curedv to the upper ends of the'baclrpanel .liiand front panel I 6 Fig.2. 7 V 7 panels; I5 areprovided Withclosure trally' disposed with respect to the .garment: front and disposed betweenithe edges of the right front in thejacketor. coatillustrated in .panel'member. 2| and the left front'panelfmember fz lwhich edges. are in abutting or slightly'spaced. relation. :Inthe'case of the constructionshown in Fig. 2, the closureopening isprovidedfby over-,1 ilapped edges 0f the right front, panel member 2| I and theleft front panelmember 22.

I In orderztov securethe front panel, members 2| 5 and Z'zdetachably together in. predetermined-re-- -lationshipa'nd to provide slide fastened connection .therebetween; a closure patch construction or clo- .unit -2d,1showniin Figs-:10, are-iplaced 'as shown sure patch uniuggenerallyclesignatedi'zd, -'is;;s.e-.

cured at its opposite. side edges, by stitching-25. w each ofthe.frontpanelmembers 2| and-22. As shown in Fig. l,fthisstitching 2 5 is disposed closelyadjacent the outer sideedges of the patch construction orpatch unit 24; and the central Zportion of the patchunit adjacent the fastener is free-of attachment to underlying portionsof the front panel members 2| and 22. Y

2.1 and Zland the connected stringer and 32 or the slide fastener til;

Accordingto this ipr'eferre d method? elements '33, and: the connected. stringer. tapes "3 .and 32 0f the slide fastener 30 are placed over the portions of the rear surfaces of strips?! and'ZS adjacent their "inner. edges; Thestririger tape'sz3 man are" then securedinknown manner to. strips. 2'! I and 28pas by stitc'hing 39.. The closure patch const' 25 is then completely formed.

A s analternative method, the "separate stringer tapes .3! and '32 may1be appliediindependently: to thest'r-ips: Zl'Pand. '28,. tas shown. ini'Figs. 1 0, 'll and According: to this :methcd, the constituent partsof'the closure'yp'atch construction or patch in Fig. .11, with the stringer tape 3| overlying the:inneredge ipo-rtiemof theu rear or back-'surfaceof the strip 2'5; :Thestrln'ger tape 3| an'd, I strip 2'! are:then'isecured together byrows of fstitching 535.

. In similar-.manner,*thess-tringer tape' tz'is placed over the inner edge portion of the rear If desired, the -upper end of the patch atstruction or patch unit may be secured toum front panel 16, intermediate the stitching 25lat patch unit. '24 comprises a pair i of strips L 2:1 :and

28 having parallel inner edges between whichare disposed the interlcckingelementsor members of a separatingend slide'fastener, generallydesigj nated 36.. I a

., As shown in Figszh to 12, the separatingiaend slide fastener :39- ccmprises stringer tapes il fanid each havingythereon a. rowv of. complemem the pull member 33. to secure-the strips '27 and :jcr backsurfaceiof' the strip'fi28and the stringer tape 32 andrstrinafi are secured together by rows .of stitchingfi'e'.

The strips 2! and 2-8, with'eattaehed stringer tapes 3 I and 32-, are then turned over, as shown in Fig. 1'2, andthe pin. member-3b is inserted through the channel of slider Wand -i'r'1tojt'l1e recess provided in the retainerfimembertb of the -end fitting. The slider 31 is1then pulled up'by -:23 .together toiformthe closure patch-- construction or: closure patch unit Zi as sho ihiFfg 7 From the above description,"it'will-clearly appear that-I 'haveprovid'edagarrnentjclosure con- :struction lof extreme "low cost: embodying the Lconveniencie and ether advantages 6f garment closure constructicnso'f fa-r grteater cost andless simplicity. V V V a It "-will,. likewise," clearly fa pear that I u have provided improved methods r tapes =31 y the strips 2 'l and 282 are suitably placed; as shown in Fig.0,

.With; their. inner edges spaced sufficiently to iac- V cor'nm'odate the"mterlockingzfastehermembersor ruction or closure :patch unit 7 7 ormi'ng' garment 'closure constructions which are particularly within the scope of the following claim.;: 1

- Having thus-fullydeseribed my invention, what 10 f I claim as new "and desire tdsectife by Letters Patent is? Y f tenerstringers and the underlying edge portions of said facingstrips, placing said conneeted faci In a method of manufactui ing ajgafinentQp r'e F paring a gairment body with a straight-lineropen inggforining a pair: of elongated lgarment openr I ing facing stripswithpne edge; of; each parall ek in'g"strips over the opening in the "garment body ajwith the siidefastener adjacent the garment body.

and substantially aligned I with said opening, and

stitching down, the outer edge; portions only. of

said facing strips to the underlying portions tof said garment body'while maintainingsaid patch] 1 member otherwise free of attachment to said gar-' ment body.

.pl'a cing said strips inslightly spaced relationship;

with said parall'led'gs adjacent onean other, Y p1acinghver the-space between said paralleledges I a separa'ting end slidejastener'having itssstring- J- ers connected, sti tbhing togethersaid slide fas- =1 

